Indie

Kalkuta- miasto radości

31 lipca 2016

imageNie będę oszukiwać, że Indie były moim marzeniem. Właściwie to zawsze były na końcu mojej listy bo naczytałam się samych strasznych rzeczy o tym kraju, o biedzie i strasznych warunkach w jakich żyją ludzie i o mafiach zbijających pieniądze na ludzkim nieszczęściu, krzywdzących dzieci, o sposobie w jaki traktuje się tutaj wdowy, rozwódki i ludzi starszych. Nienajprzyjemniejsze historie. Zresztą nie trzeba się specjalnie zagłębiać w żadną literaturę, wystarczy obejrzeć Slumdoga.

No ale, że już mnie tutaj rzuciło, to postanowiłam sprawdzić jak to naprawdę wygląda. Choć większość crew wybrało inną, kuszącą opcję, pozostania w jednym z najlepszych kalkutańskich hoteli- Taj Bengal, i oddaniu się uciechom cielesnym w postaci siłowni, masaży i spa, to jednak znalazłam dwójkę wciąż rządnych wrażeń świeżaków, takich jak ja, którzy chcą z layoverów wyciągnąć jak najwięcej;)

Zaczynamyimage Miałam generalnie w planie się przespać w drodze z lotniska ale jak wyjrzałam przez okno na ulice to juz nie mogłam zamknąć oczu. Godzina 9 rano, wiec wszyscy jadą do pracy. Cześć autobusami, samochodami, tuktukami, motorami, rowerami. Stan wszystkich tych pojazdów wola o pomstę do nieba. Myślę, że nikt tu nawet nie zna słowa klimatyzacja. W autobusie miejskim czterech panów gra w karty w drodze do pracy. Autobus jest brudny jak siedem nieszczęść, jeśli ktoś narzeka na zapachy w warszawskim autobusie w środku lata, to pewnie nawet wolałby sobie nie wyobrażać co tutaj panuje. Bo tu nie każdy w domu ma prysznic. Niektóry myją się przy hydrancie na środku ulicy.

imageNie mają też najwidoczniej pralek bo mijając jezioro zauważyłam dziewczynę, która coś w nim prała! Kawałek dalej ktoś się załatwia prawie na środku chodnika. Z jednej strony wywalony w kosmos salon Suzuki a obok syf, błoto i pasąca się krowa. Dalej ktoś jedzie na rozpadającym się rowerze, półnagie dzieci biegają w kółko a jakiś chłop sika pod płotem. Jednym słowem- niezły folklor.

imagePo przyjeździe do hotelu, concierge David, który podobno od lat opiekuje się crew, zorganizował dla nas kierowcę-przewodnika, który zafundował nam dokładne zwiedzanie Kalkuty. Na tyle, na ile mogło być ono dokładne w jeden dzień oczywiście;) Oto nasz dream team: Sara from Spain, Natalia from Poland and Gonzalo from Argentina;)

imageRazem, wspólnymi siłami, zaliczyliśmy wszystkie główne punkty miasta, o czym poniżej.

Memoriał Królowej Wiktorii

imageAngielskiej królowej rzecz jasna jako, że Kalkuta była jeszcze 100 lat temu stolicą kolonialnych Indii. W sumie budowali go między 1906 a 1921 i w międzyczasie, zanim skończyli, kolejny brytyjski król zdążył przenieść stolicę z Kalkuty do New Dehli. Pałac został ukończony w 1921, jakieś 200 lat po tym jak angole postanowili osiedlić się w Indiach i 20 po śmierci królowej. Nie wiem czy można powiedzieć aby został on wybudowany na jej „cześć” bo raczej żaden hindus sam z siebie by się nie rwał, żeby cokolwiek wznosić na cześć anglików. Ale, że kazali to hindusi zbudowali. I w rezultacie mamy wielki postkolonialny pałac w pięknym ogrodzie.

imageJak się przejdzie przez jego bramę to na chwilę się zapomina, że jest się w Indiach. Ale tylko na bardzo krótką chwilę do czasu jak hindusi nie zaczynają chcieć zrobić sobie z tobą selfie. Dziwne, ale myślałam, że to raczej w drugą stronę powinno działać, w końcu to my jesteśmy rządnymi egzotyki turystami, ale widać niekoniecznie. W ogóle to w architekturze całego miasta brytyjska obecność jest bardzo widoczna. Co akurat, z punktu widzenia architektury, nie jest takie złe.

Ganges- najbrudniejsza rzeka świata

imageNo niestety brzegu Hugli, jednej z odnóg delty Gangesu, raczej nie porównam z Bulwarami Wiślanymi albo z moim ostatnim spacerem wzdłuż brzegu Menu we Frankfurcie. Woda w rzecze najbrudniejsza jaką widziałam, wzdłuż trochę straganów, ale nie są to przyjemne restauracyjki czy bary na wodzie a taki trochę bazar. Ilość śmieci prawie jak na wysypisku. Ale to wszystko nie zmienia faktu, że jest to rzeka święta.

imageMieszkańcy miasta zażywają tutaj kąpieli, myją się, piorą, wznoszą modły, żegnają ze zmarłymi wrzucając ich nadpalone ciała do nurtu, a na koniec nalewają wodę do baniaczków, tak jak pani na zdjęciu powyżej, i zabierają do domu. Nawet nie chcę wiedzieć po co.

imageMost. Prawie jak świętokrzyski. Ale prawie robi wielką różnicę, szczególnie jak się spojrzy na przykry widok pod mostem, którego Wam oszczędzę.

Kościół świętego Jana

imageJeden z największych kościołów katolickich w Kalkucie. A tych tutaj nie brakuje ze względu na kilkuset letnią obecność Anglików w mieście. Kiedyś nawet był anglikańską katedrą, do czasu jak to zaszczytne miano nie przypadło kościołowi świętego Pawła. To pierwszy kościół katolicki który widzę, który wygląda tak skromnie, bez przepychu, nie ocieka złotem.

imageMożna powiedzieć, że biednie, szczególnie w porównaniu z europejskimi kościołami. Ale tak chyba właśnie powinien wyglądać kościół katolicki.

image imageW zeszłym roku pochowana została tutaj następczyni Matki Teresy- Nirmali Joshi.

imageDobrze, że strażnik pilnuje, żeby nie rozkradli;)

Przerwa na soczek w tej uroczej, przytulnej restauracyjce;)

imageWygląda tragicznie ale trzeba przyznać, że owoce przynajmniej smakowały jak owoce, w Dubaju takich luksusów nie ma.

Dom Matki Teresy

imageZdecydowanie najsłynniejsza postać kojarząca się z Kalkutą, zresztą po tym co zobaczyłam uważam, że zdecydowanie zasłużyła na to, żeby zostać błogosławioną. Dla mieszkańców miasta jest prawie jak sam Bóg o czym świadczą jej wizerunki umieszczane wszędzie gdzie tylko to możliwe. Nasz kierowca również miał Matkę Teresę, na desce rozdzielczej. Powiedział nam, że miał parę razy okazję uścisnąć jej dłoń i z nią porozmawiać i widać było nieskrywaną dumę.

imageJak zobaczyłam jej pokój, warunki w jakich żyła przez całe życie, to poczułam prawdziwy szacunek do tej kobiety. Ona naprawdę była powołana do tego, żeby pomagać ludziom a dobra doczesne nie interesowały jej nic a nic. Całe życie chodziła w jednych zdartych sandałach, spała na twardym maleńkim łóżeczku, w pokoiku, który na oko nie miał więcej niż 8 metrów kwadratowych i zdecydowanie nie posiadał klimatyzacji ani nawet wiatraka!!!

imageW budynku jest mała wystawa, opisująca jej skromne życie i pokazująca całą pracę jaką robiła dla biednych, chorych i umierających. Wszystko jest pokazane w pigułce, w sposób prosty ale bardzo przemawiający. Oczywiście w budynku nadal działa zgromadzenie Misjonarek Miłości jakie założyła, jest tu również sierociniec. Mogliśmy wejść do środka ale chyba nikt z nas nie był przygotowany na to psychicznie więc zrezygnowaliśmy. Ale parę dni później jedna koleżanka z training college wrzuciła na facebooka zdjęcie z dziećmi z tego sierocińca i myślę, że następnym razem się tam wybiorę. Te dzieciaki naprawdę szczerze się cieszyły, że ktoś je odwiedził, przyniósł im siatę słodyczy i widać, że taki prosty gest sprawił im masę radości. A mówiąc szczerze dieta jaką dostaliśmy w Indiach starczyła na wystawny obiad w hotelu, kawki i kanapeczki do pokoju, minibar, całodniową wycieczkę z kierowcą a i tak połowa mi jeszcze została i oddałam to kierowcy następnego dnia bo jak się zorientowałam ile nas policzył to aż miałam wyrzuty sumienia. Tutaj naprawdę każdy grosz się dla nich liczy. Facet obwoził nas po mieście cały dzień za 30 złotych od osoby. W innym kraju nie chciałoby mu się z łóżka za to wychodzić. Tyle kosztuje 15 minut w taksówce w Warszawie czy Dubaju. Myślę więc, że czasem można komuś pomóc małym kosztem.

Świątynia dżinijska

imageCzyli ogromny kolorowy kompleks składający się z 4 budynków, wyglądający jak kraina czarów od Alicji…

image…szczególnie, że przenosi się do niej prosto z biednej dzielnicy gdzie życie poza murami świątyni wygląda tak jak poniżej, więc kontrast z rzeczywistością jest dość duży.

imagePorobiliśmy trochę zdjęć i tyle nas widzieli.

image image imagePrzyznaję, że niewiele wiem o tej religii, poza tym, że wierzą w reinkarnację.

Ulice kalkuty

imageSama jazda ulicami Kalkuty i przyglądanie się życiu dookoła było atrakcją samą w sobie i sprawiało, że jechaliśmy się z szeroko otwartą buzią. Co trzeba przyznać- rzeczywiście Indie są kolorowe. Oni wszędzie coś malują, samochody są pomalowane we wzorki, kolorowe autobusy, domy w żywych barwach, nawet krawężnik jest kolorowy, żeby nie było nudno. Nie ma nikogo ubranego na czarno, szaro czy beżowo. Zupełnie niepodobnie do warszawskich ulic. A szczególnie uwielbiają kolor niebieski, tak jak ja, i wszystko malują tą farbą. U nas raczej nie spotyka się niebieskich samochodów czy budynków. W Indiach- i owszem.

imageNa ulicach masa ludzi o każdej porze dnia. Pan toczy oponę, drugi niesie na głowie jakies gary, pani szyje na maszynie, ktoś sprzedaje jakieś uliczne żarcie, pan bierze prysznic, inny myje twarz w wiadrze z woda. Nikt zdaje się nie zwracać uwagi na zachowania, które w europie raczej nie są na porządku dziennym i u nas wzbudzają co najmniej zdziwienie.

imageNo nie powiem jednak ze poczułam prawdziwe Indie w stu procentach, jadąc klimatyzowana taksówka, z kierowcą, który pełnił rolę przewodnika i jadłam tylko w hotelu, żeby nie dostać gastrycznego katharsis na drogę powrotną.

imageAle jak chcecie prawdziwej egzotyki to powinniście przyjechać właśnie tutaj. Żadna tam Tajlandia czy Chiny. Jak czytałam relacje innych z Indii to jakoś nie byłam w stanie się w to wczuć. Zupełnie co innego jest o tym czytać, a co innego zobaczyć.  Ja chyba nie byłbym jeszcze gotowa spędzić tutaj dwutygodniowych wakacji, ale kilka dni jak na początek powinno być w sam raz dla każdego.

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